A vacation in the Dominican Republic usually conjures up images of sparkling turquoise-blue waters lapping away at the seemingly endless kilometers of white- and golden-sand beaches, with tall coconut palms swaying ever so gently in the ocean breeze. The contagious beat of the nation’s merengue wafts over you as you sip a refreshing, ice-cold Presidente beer or an exquisitely prepared Piña Colada. This is just a glimpse of Paradise, far away from home, far away from your worries. Not a care in the world…
This is more often than not the first thing people think about when they imagine themselves on vacation in the Dominican Republic. The truth of the matter, however, is that there is plenty more to the Dominican Republic than just a bit of surf, sand and sun.
Santo Domingo, for example, is the nation’s capital, and you will be hard put to find a more exciting place to be in the Caribbean. With a population of over three million residents, Santo Domingo boasts the most exciting nightlife and clubbing in the region, the finest gourmet dining this side of the Atlantic Ocean, and shopping opportunities that you will not believe (thanks in great part to a RD$34-to-US$1 exchange rate).
Those interested in a more cultural and historical experience are also in for a treat, with Santo Domingo’s romantic Colonial Zone, unquestionably one of the most important settlements in the history of the New World, featuring cobblestoned streets, historical monuments, and wonderful old-world Spanish architecture that remains relatively in tact. Santo Domingo’s Colonial Zone is home to many of the New World’s “firsts,” such as the very first cathedral in the Americas, Cathedral Santa Maria la Menor; the very first military fortress, Fortaleza Ozama; and the first medical center and hospital, the Hospital San Nicolas de Bari, as well as many others. So impressive is the collection of 15th and 16th century colonial edifications, that UNESCO has declared the “Ciudad Colonial de Santo Domingo” (Spanish for Colonial City of Santo Domingo) as a World Heritage Site.
The Colonial City of Santo Domingo was the first settlement established by Christopher Columbus and the Spanish explorers upon arriving at the New World. Colloquially known as “Zona Colonial” (Colonial Zone), it is part of the original city of Santo Domingo. Its origins date back to the beginning of the 1500s.
Located on the west bank of the Ozama River, which divides the ever-expanding metropolis of Santo Domingo, the Colonial Zone today covers an area of less than five square kilometers, with a high number of landmarks and colonial edifications spread out throughout the area.
Among the most important of these landmarks are the Alcazar de Colón, which was the seat’s standing governmental palace; Fortaleza Ozama, the first military fortress in the New World, still standing high above the waters of the Ozama River; and Cathedral Santa Maria la Menor, pronounced the first cathedral in the New World by Pope Paul III in 1542.
The cobblestoned “Calle Las Damas” is the oldest street of the settlement and the first street in the Americas, dating far back to 1502. The pedestrian-only street is bordered by many of the zone’s more prominent landmarks, such as the National Pantheon, and even boasting the very first Royal Sundial in the Americas. It is also home to the Museo de las Casas Reales (Museum of the Royal Houses), once the 16th century governor’s Supreme Court. Today, it stands as one of the country’s most important museums, documenting Santo Domingo’s rich colonial history, with tapestries, maps and other artifacts from 1492 to 1821.
Another important museum is the Museo de la Familia Dominicana del Siglo XIX (Museum of the Dominican Family of the 19th Century), located within the Casa de Tostado. Casa de Tostado was built in 1503, and has the particularity of the only double Gothic window in North or South America. This colonial mansion exhibits artifacts and personal belongings of a 19th century well-to-do Santo Domingo family.
One of the most frequented areas within the zone is the recently restored and expanded Plaza de la Hispanidad, bordered by Las Atarazanas Street, home to numerous small shops, bars and restaurants. This area was once an important commercial center in the Americas, and to this day it remains an important hub of activity. Viewed from the sidewalk cafes on Las Atarazanas, in the foreground you have the majestic Alcazar de Colon, and in the background the waters of the Ozama River rushing by.
Having once been the colonial palace of the Columbus family, the Alcazar is now a well-regarded museum displaying period furniture and decorations. This palace, including artifacts from the Columbus family, was built in the 1510 by Christopher Columbus’ brother Bartholomew, and the admiral’s son, Diego.
The main artery of commerce in the area is the historic Calle El Conde, which is a pedestrian walkway lined with an endless number of stores, specialty shops, kiosks, cafes and eateries. Everything from huge multi-floored department stores to cigar shops, from fast food chains like Kentucky Fried Chicken and Burger King to local cafes and restaurants, like Petrus. Wandering salesmen peddle their merchandise to the pedestrians, while every ten or twenty feet a kiosk selling everything from sunglasses to jewelry features a group of people huddled around it looking for the best bargain possible.
The Colonial City was once surrounded by a defensive wall extending from the Ozama River to “La Puerta del Conde” (The Gate of El Conde), which at the time was the only entrance to the hinterland and the furthest boundary of the city. Thus it remained until around the late 19th century. You can still appreciate a part of this surrounding wall, particularly in the riverfront area.
As far as the Spanish conquest of the New World is concerned, Santo Domingo was used as a “first point of influence,” from whence to further their excursions to the American mainland. Even though Spain’s concentration on the conquest of the American mainland, most notably Mexico and other regions of Latin America, diminished the importance of the settlement in the scheme of things, the Colonial City remained an important historical site.
Over the centuries, the Colonial City, originally known as La Isabela, definitely experienced its share of trouble. It was destroyed by an earthquake in 1562. Later, it was captured, looted and burned down by Sir Francis Drake in 1586. The settlement spent most of the 17th century being attacked by both British and French forces.
Today, Santo Domingo’s romantic Colonial Zone is the ideal place to spend an evening, strolling along its cobblestoned streets with an ice-cold Presidente in hand, feeling the ocean breeze blow in from the nearby Caribbean Sea. Or maybe just a romantic dinner for you and that someone special at one of the sidewalk cafes on Las Atarazanas, watching the people come and go as they drift through the night on their own adventures, with the stars shining brightly above…
It’s all good.
By Gary Zemialkowski
